I would be lying if I wrote that nothing has changed, because although I didn’t realize it in Ghana– so much had changed, but let’s pick up where we left off: my girls.
Natyna. The girl with the golden-kissed skin, dyed, kempt locks and cherub cheeks– she’s all you could ever ask for. She will tell you, “I smile this way because I know I have messed up teeth so I had to embrace them.” And so she does. Every inch of Natyna exudes confidence–not to be confused with arrogance. She’s humble, and coming from Philadephia, pursuing a double minor at NYU in Africana Studies and dramatic writing– she’s eloquent in her speech, fluid with her vowels and adjectives so that her words caress your ears when she speaks. One thing that she doesn’t do is fall short of things to say, but I always wonder what’s her trick? How does she know exactly when, where and how to soothe your hurt with a rhetoric of solace, wisdom and youthful optimism gelled into one?
I don’t think I’ll ever figure it out– how she balances the weight of her family on her back, caring 100% for everyone (and everything!)– again, never falling short of that. She’ll admit, “I worry too much,” not afraid to put her darkest, most horrible flaws out to the world because in the end we’re all human. Being vulnerable doesn’t scare her like it would most and people gravitate towards that– that uncannied realness that you can’t find even if you travelled to the center of the earth. LOYALTY. At heart, she’s a mother– always feeling the need to lick wounds, offering comfort and her nurturing presence. I think she was born to have babies actually! All in all, no one can top this girl. She’s the perfect fruit juice blend of nature, nurture, loyalty, insanity, creativity and direction in one whole person. Natyna Siobhan Osborne.
I don’t know what my experience would have been without them—my sisters Martina, Jasmyne, Kim, Rachel, Natyna and Shana.
Seemingly quiet and introverted, Kim was the shy girl—the number crunching, budget calculating Stern girl from Jersey. I was weary when I would interact with her. She wasn’t readable—all I knew was that she was all about money and the best way to save it. Who knew that this girl has a blossoming personality and a laugh that could light up a room. With time, Kim opened up—allowing all of us to share and enjoy what makes her so special. Kim isn’t just frugal because she wants to be (well maybe a little bit), but it’s more so because she finances her own education on top of financially helping out around the house. She’s the epitome of independence and by virtue, she’s also a stickler for perfection. As long as she can help it, Kim likes to have things executed perfectly, or close to it. She takes pride her work and takes it very seriously. I think we all need a little bit of Kim in our lives, someone who is independent, responsible and has your best interest at heart.
My over-analytical partner, Jasmyne. I knew Jasmyne since my freshman year at NYU, and there’s much that has changed in those 3.5 years.
Jasmyne, whether she sees this or not, is pretty sure of herself and that’s not to say she’s arrogant or condescending, because she is the left of that. If you ask Jasmyne a question, usually the answer is carefully thought out. She’s thinking of the best way to say it because to her clarity is everything. She knows what she wants, what she expects, what she deserves and settles for nothing less. I think a major part of her personality and her sureness comes from her mother, Lidia. From what Jasmyne shares about her mom, she’s no-nonsense and Jasmyne will tell you, ‘the truth needs no proof. Either it is or it isn’t.’ For this, she stays true to herself—sticking to her morals and never letting anyone tell her any different. She’s humble, warm, and totally willing to see both sides of any situation to offer the best and most fair advice. Jasmyne is strong, intelligent, and a great friend to have in your corner in times of joy and sadness.
Martina, Martina! These four months in Ghana changed Martina—for the better. Not only did she have a physical transformation, losing over 10 lbs and cutting her permed ends to start her natural journey. But she also had a spiritual and personal transformation. Ms. Young, too, is firm in her self-convictions. She’s not easily suaded once her mind has settled on its mark, but she’s open for new ideas and excitement. Martina’s favorite line is, “I want to go on an adventure!” And honestly, I think her entire life is an adventure. Her brilliance and exuberant personality makes it hard for anyone to shy away from her. She’s always smiling and giddy (sometimes a little too giddy). However, underneath all of the smiles and Martina definitely had some troubles along the way. Born in Jamaica, West Indies, Martina came to the United States with her parents and her younger sister. Opportunities were not always afforded to her because of her immigrant-green card status in the United States. But Martina’s faith in God and her trust in her family allowed her to push through the glass ceilings.
At times, Martina has a child-like disposition—I call it lack of street smarts, but Ghana has truly transformed her. I can say that Martina has definitely learned the principles of:
(a) Know what you want and settle for nothing less.
(b) You are the ruler of your own destiny, so speak up or no one else will do it for you.
(c) Be fearless
(d) Be true to yourself first and foremost.
In my opinion, she went back home stronger than she came in and that’s something that she’ll always remember—and that I’ll always remember too.
The last excursion of the semester turned out to be the best trip of my sixteen-week stay in Ghana.
Wli Falls is hidden by rolling hills and lush, tropical forests in the Volta region of Ghana. Walking through the beaten trail, I was able to fully take in the scenery and the foliage that surrounded the area. Pineapple patches, spider webs and stretches of Ceiba trees guided the path. It looked like an illustration out of a movie, with dense forests and hilltops peaking out from behind the greenery.
The fall is sustained by the Agumatsa River and is located near Hohoe, a town in the Volta region that sits between Lake Volta and Togo. Approaching the fall, hundreds of bats covered the stratified, moss covered rocks. The cool mist freckled the lenses of our cameras and sunglasses, offering a reprieve from the sun’s rays. This sanctuary of water was teeming with life with an array of butterflies, dragonflies, smooth multi-colored stones, and gradients of foliage to prove it.
Watching the white water plunge from about 70 meters (about 229 ft) was inviting! Immediately, I wanted to strip down to my bathing suit and jump into the clear pool that the fall produced. There were some shallow spots, but other parts of the pool were over 6 feet deep (about 2 m). Splashing in the water, I could feel the wet, soft earth under my feet. The current was manageable (if you know how to swim) but it made floating impossible.
Being there, I felt like I was in a film—or at least I wanted to be in one. All I needed was a vacant cottage that sat by the water with my castaway partner. The experience felt surreal
When I decided I was coming to Ghana, I knew that I would want to travel to another country once I got here.
I planned that my fall break would be dedicated to experiencing another country on the continent and since Togo is right next door—why not? As the break approached, my excitement weaned. I had to apply for a visa? And pay? And what about transportation? Travelling in between countries in Africa is not as easy as one would like to think. Since you’re already on the continent, one would assume that airfare would be cheaper or crossing borders might be relatively easy process as compared to travelling from outside the continent. However, this is not 100 percent true.
19th Oct., Martina and I set out with only our weekend bags and a couple hundred Ghana cedis. That’s all we had. We had no clue how we were getting to the country. We had no visa, no place to stay, no hotel reservation, and most importantly, no knowledge of French!
The rain drenched us. For the two months that I have been in Ghana, it has never rained that hard or that long. We thought it was an omen—one we didn’t take heed to.
Onward we went. Took a taxi for 8 GH¢. Got to the the bus station. Paid another 9 GH¢
for the three and a half hour tro-tro ride to the Ghanaian border. It was smooth sailing. We got to the border around 8:30pm and were greeted by cheery Ghanaian officers who assisted us in acquiring a Togolese visa.
Now this is where things got tricky. CFA or West African CFA Franc is the currency used by many French colonized countries in West Africa. In Central Francophone countries, Central African CFA Franc is used.
The visa was about $30 USD, 60 GH¢ or 15,000 CFA. The conversion to CFA became a bit complicated, and even more so because Martina and I were totally unprepared.
However, crossing the border felt like such a liberating experience. We finally reached our destination and immediately saw a difference. We even met a Nigerian friend, who stuck with us the entire trip.
We had such a short weekend in Kumasi, but it was so impactful!
After the 5-hour drive from Accra to the capital of the Asante region, we finally arrived at Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST) where we stayed. We dropped off our belongings and took a very short tour of the campus, which is structured very much like a traditional campus with an “authentic” college-feel—unlike what I accustomed to at NYU! One of our RA’s, Abigail is an alumna of the University and she took us to art department where many of her colleagues and professors were still making and displaying art. Students were working diligently on their sculpted pieces with brows of concentration and hands of sturdiness.
Moving on from our small tour, we visited the Almighty God workshop, where Kwame Akoto (the artist behind Almighty God Artworks, also known as Almighty God) greeted us with Bible scriptures and songs of praise. Paintings of Jesus Christ, celestial representations, political messages of safe sex and anti-smoking campaigns dressed the walls of the outdoor art space. Every painting was charged, whether it be politically, religiously or otherwise. Akoto writes messages on each of his works, leaving nothing unstated or to be guessed.
Each of us that participated in the workshop was guided by Akoto’s talent to further develop our projects.
We visted Manhiya palace the following day, which also serves as a museum. The house that serves as a museum was the home of the previous Asantehene (or King of Asante). Upon his return to the Asante kingdom from exile, the British offered him the house as compensation. The Asantehene would not accept the offering until it was fully paid for and obtained by Asante. Eventually, the home was paid for, and he moved in.
Life-size figures of previous Asantehene and Queen Mothers are placed in separate rooms in house along with old photographs, furniture, cutlery and eatery that remained from the previous king. Each artifact served as a piece of Asante history.
After the time at tour at the palace, we travelled to a village in Kumasi where Adinkra cloth is made. There are certain symbols used in the Asante culture that represent certain ideas, principles or beliefs that are essentially universal. The most popular one is gye nyame which translates to “except God.” It means that the person wearing this fears no one/nothing except God and puts nothing before Him. There are several dozen others, but only about 60 of the symbols are most frequently used.
In the village, the business of Adinkra cloth making is a owned by a man and his family. The brother carves the symbols, and the man makes the dye. Making the dye consists of obtaining a specific tree bark and soaking it in water for hours. After soaking it and breaking it apart, the bark is pounded continuously and then boiled for a total of exactly 11 hours (precision is key here)! Then the boiled concoction is cooled and sifted.
Because the village is so remote, the inhabitants use the remnants of boiled bark to treat certain health problems as well. The bland bark is left until mushrooms sprout and once sprouted; they are boiled. Women suffering with menstrual cramps and diarrhea complications are treated from this bark-mushroom method!
The wooden carvings are then dipped into the black dye, and “printed” onto cloth. Some of the other family members weave Kente—which is another tedious process that involves serious endurance. The weaving is done using a wooden contraption that the weaver sits in and shifts his legs and arms in a religious motion to create the beautiful cloth. It is done in strips, and then the strips are put together to create full-length material.
Although these people seem happy living in this remote village, many wanted to exchange contact in hopes of gaining an opportunity to come to the U.S. Although this happens often in Ghana, all of us were taken back when a woman offered her child to a colleague in the group. This was a jarring experience for my colleague as the reality of village poverty was right in front of her.
At the end of our weekend, we attended the Akwasidae festival (read about it in the following post). Kumasi was a great experience! I went back this past weekend to visit some friends we met last time.
Someone ever looked at your name and pronounced it in a way that was so off, you had to think “does this person know how to read?” Well, I guess that’s how the Asante felt when European interaction left them scarred with the Ashanti name instead.
About four weeks ago, I went to Kumasi— leaving Accra for my second journey through Ghana. Kumasi—capital of the Asante region— is known for several things, including a significant agricultural economy, Kente weaving, loads and loads of foliage and most importantly, Otumfuo Nana Osei Tutu II. Otumfuo Nana Osei Tutu II is the King of Asante and on the Sunday that we visited Kumasi, New York University students paid homage to him at the Akwasidae festival at Manhiya Palace.
The festival serves as time for people to come and not only pay homage and show respect for the King, but also for other Asante chiefs and vistors to congregate. The day before the festival, which happens every 42 days, the King meets with sub-chiefs throughout the kingdom at Manhiya palace. Others who come with grievances and concerns can also make an appointment to see the King. The following day, the King makes a public appearance on the grounds of the palace where men, women and children come dressed in traditional and contemporary attire to pay homage.
Although the King may seem like the main focus, all of the drumming, songs and dance performed are in honor of ancestral spirits. Huge, elaborately decorated umbrellas dance around in the sky. Sounds of traditional horns and praise singing fill the air as visitors from other African nations, the U.S. and Europe greet the King with gifts and smiles.
As Asantehene, Osei Tutu II sits dressed in a colorful, Kente cloth covered in solid gold jewelry from head to foot with an amiable look plastered on his face.
At times, the festival was a bit hard to follow, as the procession didn’t seem organized and the praise songs were in Twi. However, after the ceremony, we met with one of the Asante sub-chiefs who gave us a bit of insight.
Every part of the ceremony and the festival is indeed organized and strategically planned. He told us, without a doubt he knows when and where to stand and sit as it correlates with his position within the kingdom as a high-ranking chief. He stressed that Ghana, as a country and Asante, as a major ethnic group, have traditional, yet modern customs, which are intricately mingled. The chief continued on to say that he is fully educated, holding a Ph. D yet he knows, accepts and understands his position as sub-chief to the King. He gladly accepts his obligation of reign and enjoys helping others in his community.
Aside from being chief, he is a professional, as with Osei Tutu II. He too is an advocate for education and has maintained a scholarship for upcoming students who have to academic potential, but not necessarily the monetary means to attend University. He also serves as chancellor of Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST).
The festival and the meeting we had with the sub-chief after ceremony was a truly unique, stimulating experience!
To read about it in your high school textbook is one thing. But to actually experience the Trans-Atlantic slave trade through your own senses is another.
Approaching the castle, you really don’t know what to expect. The week before you dreamed about horrific images of mal-nourished people being beaten mercilessly and treated like human waste. Last night you tried to emotionally prepare yourself for the torment. And today comes. You stand in front of the castle. All of those dreams, lectures and last minute preparations are washed away by beach waves of nerves and anxiety.
Or at least that’s how I felt…
Re-visiting Cape Coast and the Elmina slave castle felt like a new experience. I knew exactly what I was going to expect, but it was as though my memory had failed me because I missed out some crucial details like the putrid vomit smell mixed with stifling mold that covered the walls of the female dungeon quarters. However, that gut wrenching odor couldn’t be compared to real-life conditions some hundreds of years ago. Imagine a hot, stuffy room overflowing with 150 or more women crouching to preserve space. Their own menstruation, feces, vomit among other fluids surrounding them. Since there were no separate quarters for children, young boys would be kept in the male dungeons and the young girls would be kept with their female elders. A girl under 10 years old in those conditions is nearly unfathomable, outside of the fact that this was once–and in some places in the world, today–a reality.
The room had very little ventilation, and one of the openings in the main female dungeon led to the magazine, where ammunition was kept. Gun powder fumes and other explosive gases would seep into the female dungeon quarters, suffocating the already dying and the sick.
In front of the main female dungeon was an opening where, after the Governor chose his woman for the evening, she was made to wash up in front of her counterparts and white, male captains. After being washed and given a small portion of food for sustenance, she was led up a flight of stairs that took her straight to the Governor’s bedroom. There he had his way with her, either for the night or for longer. Still, this abuse was not enough. She would then be violated and raped in sequence by his subordinates, all before she returned to the miserable and foul quarters to rejoin her peers.
After the tour of the female quarters, we were taken around the rest of the castle. Towards the end of the tour, we visited a dungeon were slaves were taken to be punished. There, “unruly” slaves would be kept until they died. At times, the living and the dead would be chained together, and although the captains knew one died, they did nothing. The mental and emotional torment had to have been tremendous. The living slave had to sit, idly awaiting his own death.
We were also taken to the door/dungeon of no return, where slaves were gathered before they were shipped across the Atlantic. Standing in that room, many of my colleagues shed tears of disbelief and anguish. Around us, there were wreaths that were placed by past vistors– commemorating the loss of their ancestors to this trade of human cargo.
Today this castle stands as proof to much of history’s nightmares and dark secrets. Much of African Diaspora as we know it today, started with selling and trading–with Elmina as one of those sites. Many people would like to hush the whispers that are heard through these castle walls, claiming that we’re in a post-racial society. But how could we ever be? Many of us still wear the brand that made us to be sold and traded in the first place. My skin color could never change. Neither can the shape of my nose, lips, nor the coils in my hair–at least not without external modifications. Furthermore, because we’re in the 21st century oppression changes shape accordingly–so please don’t think because you aren’t being sold and made to be a slave, that you aren’t just that: a slave. Our ancestors that left those Atlantic shores are like the chaff which the wind carried away…