Boy, oh BOY!
We had such a short weekend in Kumasi, but it was so impactful!
After the 5-hour drive from Accra to the capital of the Asante region, we finally arrived at Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST) where we stayed. We dropped off our belongings and took a very short tour of the campus, which is structured very much like a traditional campus with an “authentic” college-feel—unlike what I accustomed to at NYU! One of our RA’s, Abigail is an alumna of the University and she took us to art department where many of her colleagues and professors were still making and displaying art. Students were working diligently on their sculpted pieces with brows of concentration and hands of sturdiness.
Student at KNUST and his self-sculpture
Moving on from our small tour, we visited the Almighty God workshop, where Kwame Akoto (the artist behind Almighty God Artworks, also known as Almighty God) greeted us with Bible scriptures and songs of praise. Paintings of Jesus Christ, celestial representations, political messages of safe sex and anti-smoking campaigns dressed the walls of the outdoor art space. Every painting was charged, whether it be politically, religiously or otherwise. Akoto writes messages on each of his works, leaving nothing unstated or to be guessed.
Each of us that participated in the workshop was guided by Akoto’s talent to further develop our projects.
Cherry (colleague at NYU) doing a portrait of me at Almighty God workshop
We visted Manhiya palace the following day, which also serves as a museum. The house that serves as a museum was the home of the previous Asantehene (or King of Asante). Upon his return to the Asante kingdom from exile, the British offered him the house as compensation. The Asantehene would not accept the offering until it was fully paid for and obtained by Asante. Eventually, the home was paid for, and he moved in.
Life-size figures of previous Asantehene and Queen Mothers are placed in separate rooms in house along with old photographs, furniture, cutlery and eatery that remained from the previous king. Each artifact served as a piece of Asante history.
After the time at tour at the palace, we travelled to a village in Kumasi where Adinkra cloth is made. There are certain symbols used in the Asante culture that represent certain ideas, principles or beliefs that are essentially universal. The most popular one is gye nyame which translates to “except God.” It means that the person wearing this fears no one/nothing except God and puts nothing before Him. There are several dozen others, but only about 60 of the symbols are most frequently used.
In the village, the business of Adinkra cloth making is a owned by a man and his family. The brother carves the symbols, and the man makes the dye. Making the dye consists of obtaining a specific tree bark and soaking it in water for hours. After soaking it and breaking it apart, the bark is pounded continuously and then boiled for a total of exactly 11 hours (precision is key here)! Then the boiled concoction is cooled and sifted.
Photo of finished dye.
Because the village is so remote, the inhabitants use the remnants of boiled bark to treat certain health problems as well. The bland bark is left until mushrooms sprout and once sprouted; they are boiled. Women suffering with menstrual cramps and diarrhea complications are treated from this bark-mushroom method!
The wooden carvings are then dipped into the black dye, and “printed” onto cloth. Some of the other family members weave Kente—which is another tedious process that involves serious endurance. The weaving is done using a wooden contraption that the weaver sits in and shifts his legs and arms in a religious motion to create the beautiful cloth. It is done in strips, and then the strips are put together to create full-length material.
Abigail (a CRA at NYU) practicing Kente weaving and one of the weavers.
Although these people seem happy living in this remote village, many wanted to exchange contact in hopes of gaining an opportunity to come to the U.S. Although this happens often in Ghana, all of us were taken back when a woman offered her child to a colleague in the group. This was a jarring experience for my colleague as the reality of village poverty was right in front of her.
At the end of our weekend, we attended the Akwasidae festival (read about it in the following post). Kumasi was a great experience! I went back this past weekend to visit some friends we met last time.